Просто интересно что там народ пишет, мне много вопросов на ю-тубе задают, еще в личку пишут там же, с моим английским много с ними не поболтаешь.
Можешь вкратце перевести?
Hello there!
Привет
I recently came into the ownership of two young Varanus Melinus. I have my suspicions that one is male and one is female, but I'm unsure of how to tell. I used to have a tegu who was male, but he never flashed me (he just left sperm plugs everywhere)
Недавно я стала владельцем двух молодых мелинусов. Предполагаю, что один является самцом, а другой самкой, но не уверена, как точно распознать. У меня был самец тегу, но он никогда не показывал свои принадлежности(только оставлял пробки спермы везде)
My main concern is that one of the animals I have, came to me with what looked like a healed burn. Now I'm wondering if it's scale rot. I'm coming to you, because you clearly have experience with these animals, and the person I bought them from didn't have a clue. (they didn't even realize one of their lizards had white/pink spots on the stomach, and were keeping them on paper towels because they "didn't have time" for them...
Моей основной озабоченностью явяется то, что один из животных был получен мной с чем-то похожим наззаживший ожог. Теперь я переживаю, не будет ли гнить его чешуя. Обращаюсь к тебе потому что ты явно обладаешь большим опытом с этими животными, и человек, у которого я их купила, не имеет ни малейшего представления(Они даже не заметили, что один из их ящеров имел белые/розовые пятна на животе, и держали их на бумажных салфетках потому что у них не было на них времени)
If you could provide information about the temperatures/humidity you provide for your animals, that would be wonderful. I want to care for these animals to the best of my ability, and it's clear that you know what you're doing.
Если бы ты мог предоставить необходимую информацию о температурах/влажности которые ты используешь для своих животных, это было бы прекрасно. Я хочу заботиться об этих ящерах как можно лучше и очевидно, что ты знаешь, что ты делаешь.
Here are some photos of the female's belly (as far as I know she's female anyway)
This one is from when I first got her about a month and a half ago
The others I took today, after cleaning her off. I've since separated her from the suspected male, and put her in a dry temporary enclosure, in case the current one is too moist for her and causing scale rot.
I'm hoping she's just still healing whatever burn she may have had from her prior owner, and it just looks funny... but I'm trying to avoid a vet visit if possible, as I've heard that most "exotic" vets out here, don't know much about monitors, and while I'm looking, I haven't found a "good" vet yet.
Anyway, thank you very much for your time. You have gorgeous animals. <3
Я так примерно понял что она хотела узнать, может что-то пропустил.
В общем переживает из-за заживающего/зажившего ожога и спрашивает о содержании. Можешь ей сказать, если она американка, что заживающий ожог хорошо обрабатывать Betadine (povidone-iodine), и никак не спиртовым раствором йода. Я как раз своего лечил от ожога однажды. На английском я накатал вкратце всю доступную мне информацию о содержании варанов, если вдруг тебе оно понадобится:
There are few strict rules with monitors, that have to be followed to the core:
space. The more the better. They are very active species with advanced respiratory and circulatory systems that allow them to deploy anaerobic metabolism similar to mammals. So a lot of space should be provided. Minimal terrarium size is 1 full animal lengh wide, two animal lengths long and at least 1 lengths tall. So, for 4ft adult monitor minimal size of enclosure should be at least 8x4x4. Here is enclosure I built for my monitor. [RES ignored duplicate link] It is currently 4Lx2Wx5H, but was designed as modular, so it will be expanded and later on he will get his own room. Being very active foraging predators covering huge areas daily, monitors need that space. They also need to be let out under supervision in the safe environment, and when weather allows it's good to take them for a walk on a leash.
temperature range. Emphasis on range. It is very important for animal temperature self regulation. For this particular Indonesian specimen it should be 75F at the substrate level, 95F up top, 125-130F basking area. And all gradients in between. Around 75F night time temperature. Other monitors species should have similar temperature ranges with cool corners and hot corners. Uniform temperature is not acceptable. If not provided with necessary temperatures they will have problems with digestion, metabolism and other connected health issues.
humidity. High humidity is extremely important for this semi-aquatic tropical forest mangrove monitor. I keep it at 75-85% all the time with automatic misting system and thick 1.5' substrate layers(organic topsoil, sand and coconut fiber mix). Bowl of fresh water to accomodate the whole animal. Water should be fresh every day. I get hot water in a bucket day before to dechlorinate it. Not providing high humidity will cause problems with shedding, down to the point when stuck unshed skin prevents blood flow and animal may lose tow, tail or limb. Also, since they dont have sweat glands and pores, dehydrated monitor will have issues with not being able to properly excrete toxic metabolism products form his body and can develop gout and other health issues.
diet Whole diet. At young age as many invertebrates as possible. Crickets, roaches, earthworms and nightcrawlers, silkworms, snails. Occasional(not every day) rodent. As of now my monitor hunts crickets(about 6 dozen a week) gets 1-3 pinky mice a week and few small pieces of shrimp and fish as a treat when I work with him. When grown up: mice, rats, whole shrimp, whole fish, whole chicks, fertilized quail eggs, snails, mollusks, roaches, locusts. Very important not to overfeed - in the wild they roam over huge territory and stay in shape, in captivity its easy to overfeed them and it is extremely hard to make obese reptile normal again. Also diet pieces should not be bigger than his mouth opening, so he doesn't struggle consuming it. Dis-balanced mineral content and vitamin D and calcium deficiency can lead to metabolic bone disease.
time I spend a lot of time working with little guy. Few hours every weekend, every lunch hour I drive to work with him, handle and tame. Even after 6 months with me he is a bit flighty when I get him out of enclosure, but calms down and crawls all over me in a bathroom - his walking place and playground for now. Bathroom is all covered in burlap and towels for him to climb. When he grows up I will take him for a walk on a leash. They need to move a lot.
safety. Monitors are escape artists, you wouldn't believe what they can do to escape. It is extremely important to prevent him from escaping, all service holes in house/apartment should be covered or he will escape in the sewage and be gone. All the hot objects should not be accessible for them to hide - they may burn themselves pretty bad.
There is more info being available to me every day handling him, but this is the most important stuff.
Edit: I will be updating this info sheet with new information available and provide it by request from time to time for those who are interested in keeping monitor lizard.
Edit2: aquariums are not suitable for keeping monitors. It is impossible to provide necessary space and heat gradient in aquarium for monitor lizard. Also it is almost impossible to seal it properly so humidity doesn't escape from mesh lid. Also monitor may feel threatened when you access him from the top.
