Вот более-менее полный список всего, что использовалось:
1) reptaquatics.com/?q=node/366
2) "Originally Posted by Thrasops
Hoo, where to start?
Okay, first off they aren't on the DWA, the only Boiga that was ever on there was Boiga dendrophila, the Mangrove snake, up until 2007... but it was removed that year as it seems there was some confusion regarding the "death" attributed to it - probably a mixup with a Banded Krait.
However... B. nigriceps is generally regarded as one of the more potent, if not the most potent, species left in the Boiga genus (now that B. blandingi has been given its own genus - Toxodryas)... there are comparisons of basic toxicity with that of the Death Adder (Acrantophis) all over the web.... which in my opinion is as meaningless as the comparisons you see between False Water cobras and Timber Rattlesnakes... however it is good to bear in mind that as rear-fanged snakes, and Boiga in particular, go, this species can probably pack quite a punch...
That said, all the animals I have kept have been notably docile (for Boiga) and hasslefree - but then again, I don't consider Boiga difficult to work with in the first place as even the aggressive ones are "lungers" rather than "strikers" - they can have a good range but aren't particularly quick (or accurate) as snakes go.
B. nigriceps grow to middle-sized snakes, mine didn't get longer than about 5' or so, and the male much smaller (3'). Juvenile patterns (such as the one in the picture on CPR's website) are basically brown or brick red, with the snakes developing adult coloration after a few years... the nicest animals stay brick red and develop a greenish black head, but some just become a plain brown or blackish and these cases aren't the most attractive of the genus.
Despite the fact that they don't grow to be particularly large (for Boiga), what is nice about this species is that the babies come out massive, mine were more than 30cm long and like B. cyanea are easily able to engulf pinkies and small fluffs from day one - and they aren't hard to get feeding, either, which is a plus! For anyone who has ever tried to rear hatchling Boiga of the smaller species will really appreciate this fact!!!
Even if they don't accept tease-fed food from the get-go, like B. cyanea and B. irregularis, this species has a well developed "bite and chew" reflex so getting them to swallow a prey item that is gently pushed between their lips is a doddle, and they almost always bite down hard and carry on chewing until the food is swallowed this way.
The way I keep Boiga kind of flies in the face of everything I normally type about lighting, space and naturalistic vivs, but I have done very well with this genus by keeping them in RUBs, with finch or parrot perches drilled through the sides to provide something to climb on... a 19L RUB (which is 30cm tall) is perfect for babies as it gives them some height to perch... substrate I use can be fine orchid bark or potting soil, both of which keep constant humidity, and no ventilation holes in the RUB (i.e. just relying on the gap between the lid and the box is fine). Using a heat mat to warm the box to about 28c is adequate.
This works because the opaque nature of the RUBs seems to give the snake some security, and as these snakes are nocturnal, lighting isn't as much of an issue - although as always I do believe some species at least (like B. dendrophila and B. cyanea) do spend a certain amount of time basking) - however giving a feeling of security and peace and quiet is more of a priority with Boiga. Once they are feeding well and growing on a bit, by all means try them in a naturalistic viv, although I found they became very quiet and stressed in all-glass enclosures so needed wooden vivs with three walls - which don't combine well with their preference for good humidity. So I use 19L RUBs for small specimens, and 84 or 145L RUBs for larger ones.
A tip on humidity - I am rough and ready in this respect, but the way that works for me is to use "high" ceramic plant pots full of water... the snakes almost always don't drink from these, most only lap up condensation from the sides of the RUB or themselves, but having a large amount of water in there helps create the high humidity required, and also means you don't have to keep opening the box to refill the pot... these snakes like a lot of peace and quiet!
For hiding spots, it's best to give a mixture of ground level hides (like cork bark) and arboreal ones. Things that work well are cork "tubes" - I like to wrap them around a branch so they look like peeling bark, and this gives the snakes something tight and cramped for them to cram their bodies into. Another great little tip I learned a few years ago from an American forum is to cut a small hole about 1" into an old tennis ball and hide it somewhere in the foliage above ground level - it is absolutely amazing how large a Boiga can fit into and curl up in one of these! A couple of these suspended at various levels can provide the perfect places for a small or medium snake to "chill out".
A word on attitude... although I tend to generalise in species terms between "aggressive/ defensive species" like B. irregularis and B. cynodon and "calm species" like B. cyanea and B. nigriceps... within a species their temperaments actually vary quite a lot. Some (especially those that get hand fed at first) remain relatively relaxed and usually don't strike or become threatening... others can be very irritable snakes, I have some B. cyanea that will attempt to strike at me through the RUB when I get too close, and one large female that is one of the few snakes I have kept that will actually advance upon me in a rage! It can be an intimidating thing to face a six-foot Boiga (and some get considerably longer than that!) while it is rising up in multiple s-coils, hissing loudly, mouth open, tail rattling wildly, and lunging at you with a good four-foot range... and there doesn't seem to be much correlation between aggressiveness and whether or not the snake is captive bred or WC (in fact my more aggressive specimens are all CB!)
For the main triumvirate of "easier" Boiga species (B. cyanea, B. irregularis and B. nigriceps) food shouldn't be an issue... as stated above, if they won't strike or tease-feed, simply inserting the prey item into the front of the mouth will almost always encourage a bite response, and if the snake is gently released, it will invariably finished chowing down by itself. After a few feeds like this, most of them get the picture (although it has to be said I have a few adult B. cyanea here that I held back as they never got the hang of strike feeding, or merely grew to depend on hand-feeding... I wouldn't sell such animals on, but they actually have become ridiculously tame, and, far from being reluctant feeders, will eat very reliably - but only out of my fingers, and they are very gentle and calm in doing so!)
Another word of warning - many Boiga think nothing of snacking on one another (B. cyanea are notorious snake-eaters, but others will too...) NEVER keep these snakes together! I have even had adult females attempt to eat adult males with which they have mated several years in a row. Not to mention the problems that might occur if you had to negotiate TWO striking rear-fangers aiming in your general direction during maintenance work. These snakes should only be kept one to a box!
In summary, as long as you are going for CB animals (and usually, even WC of this species are very keepable), this species is actually not much of a challenge, as long as you are confident in your hook work and gently manipulating a reluctant feeder rear-fanged in your hands to push in a pinky and release if needs be. As Boiga go, they are a good species to start with if you keep in mind their possible toxicity. Since they are CB (and I have to say a lot of my early Boiga came from Crystal Palace and they were all excellent specimens!) you won't have the usual problems with acclimatisation, rehydration and treatment for parasites, etc, so if you are intending to start with this genus I'd say go for it - B. nigriceps is definitely one of the best species to keep!
Regards,
Francis"
3) en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Boiga_nigriceps
4) terraria.ru/boiga5
5) ecologyasia.com/verts/snakes/black-headed_cat-snake.htm
7)
http://myreptile.ru/forum/index.php?topic=1193.0;wap28) mypets.by/boiga-nigriceps
9) tramabourtz.info/razvyedyeniye-shyesti-vidov-boyg-v-tulskom-ekzotariumye-v-1999-godu/
10) reptileforums.co.uk/forums/snake-care-sheets/20802-boiga-species-care-guide.html
11) reptile-database.reptarium.cz/species?genus=Boiga&species=nigriceps
Эм... было еще много чего... Но как-то уже затерялось в "истории", т.к. с разных компов писалось
Если найду еще что-нибудь, или вспомню - дополню список
P.S. Еще раз повторюсь, если есть у кого-нибудь дополнения или исправления, было бы замечательно, если вы выскажетесь
Мой опыт в бойгах не такой большой, как хотелось бы, и в конце концов, все могут ошибаться
Давайте вместе все обсудим, и сделаем максимально точную и полезную статью по этой замечательной бойге
